To visit Prey Phghues and Ba Sre villages in Battambang Province, Cambodia, a former Khmer Rouge stronghold where known combatants secrete themselves in the jungle, drive northwest on National Route 5 from Phnom Penh toward the Thai-Cambodian border; and, in about three hundred kilometers, turn left onto a dirt road. Be careful. There are no road signs. While Route 5 is paved, flat and, by Cambodian standards, relatively modern and well maintained, you need a full-time “4-wheel drive” once you leave the highway. Within minutes, you find yourself negotiating mogul fields peppered with unmarked hazards and pot-holes the size of a Land Cruiser. Fifteen minutes of driving brings you to a river severing the road. Locals use a rickety foot-bridge on the left to cross — obviously built by hand during an extremely dry season; but, you and your vehicle will need to wade against the river. During the rainy season, however, the river will be impassable stranding the villagers and leaving the villages isolated from the outside world.